BUENOS AIRES

Larger than life, Buenos Aires never fails to fascinate travellers. At first glance, however, it might seem closed off and unapproachable. But this megalopolis of more than three million people is in fact very open - provided you approach it through the richness of its neighbourhoods, its barrios. The magic of the city, commonly known as 'Little Paris', comes from its remarkable diversity.

Palermo is the largest, most connected, and most bohemian barrio. Here you will find many of the cultural sites of the city, along with artisanal workshops, designer boutiques and a plethora of trendy restaurants.

The most distinguished is the mostly residential barrio of Recoleta. Strolling in the gardens next to the barrio's famous cemetery, under the shade of the jacaranda trees, whose purple flowers are emblematic of the city, architectural attractions like the University of Buenos Aires Law School, the Del Pilar church and the Palais de Glace, the country's most famous exhibition hall, will draw your eye.

San Telmo, an historic district with cobbled streets holds many treasures: beautiful museums (like the National History Museum and the MAMBA), as well as wacky and unexpected antique shops and old churches such as Belén.

Near the old port of the city, the La Boca quarter, with colourful houses, art galleries and cosy bars, is THE neighbourhood for tango and football. Along the renovated quays of the Rio de la Plate, the Puerto Madero quarter with its skyscrapers is the business centre of the city, and home to a number of fine luxury hotels and art galleries.

The melancholy, sensual sound of tango accompanies is the city soundtrack. This poignant and passionate music was born of the pain of single men from Europe, living in poor neighbourhoods, cultivating their unhappiness and longing for a life left far behind. It is a way of life which, like polo, or gaucho culture, and characterised by maté, the national drink, and asados ​​(grilled meats), provides a glimpse into the complex mysteries of the Argentine soul.